Suz, 25 December 2007
South Africa Johannesburg

The Big Four and then some

Christmas Eve, in the middle of Kruger National Park, and we were dying to see some lions. It was our first (and only) full day in the park and Caitlin, Chris, Neva, and I had spent the day driving around in a safari truck with people from all over the world--Germany, Namibia, Australia, New Zealand, Canada...we had been in the middle of an elephant herd crossing, spied on a hippo, and gone a couple of excruciating hours without seeing so much as an antelope. The night safari brought a new hope, especially when we saw a leopard hiding in some bushes in the first few minutes. But we wanted lions. And we sat and sat and sat (and had a pee break while being guarded by our gun-toting, berry-picking guides) without so much as a footprint. Then, as we were pulling into camp...six lions! Just sitting in the road. And this morning, four cheetahs, just outside the park gate. All in all, I'm pretty satisfied with our safari experience.

We haven't even been in South Africa for a week, and already I'm loving life on the road. We can do pretty much whatever we want (money and time being the only real restrictions). I don't think I've ever had such a lack of plans or responsibilities. Due to some problems with Air Madagascar baggage, the four of us are sharing two backpacks, so travel is light. We've spent some time in Johannesburg, doing some of the major tourist attractions. We visited the Apartheid Museum and did a tour of Soweto, the township where the black people of Johannesburg were forced to live in squalor during apartheid (also the home of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu). While apartheid is disgusting, I'm also incredibly impressed and moved by the strength of the freedom fighters. I've been finding myself searching for residue left over by apartheid in South African society...frankly, it's pretty obvious. Political apartheid might be over, but as far as I can see, economic apartheid continues. Our hostel is in a ritzy neighborhood, dominated by white people living in large, gated homes and shopping in stores I can't afford. And Soweto is still largely the home of black people living in poorly constructed tin shacks, waiting for the government to help build them better homes.

I'm still feeling pretty overwhelmed by my own privilege. This time, I feel guilty about myfamily being left behind. I'm only twenty and here I am going on safaris and planning a wine tour of the Western Cape. I haven't done anything to deserve all of this; I really wish my family could be here with me to experience all of this. I know it's cheesy, but it's Christmas. I miss you all.

So we're going to have a braai (South African BBQ) for dinner and then tomrrow morning we leave for the Drakensberg, a gorgeous mountain chain further south, to do some hiking. And then it's on to the coastal city of Durban for New Year's (I think it's pretty impressive that we have our lives planned for the whole next week). Happy Holidays everyone!